01.01.70

Most foreigners who come to the south of France think of Marseille as an exit or entry point. It’s convenient, only an hour’s drive from Avignon and the hill towns of the Vaucluse and so many other lovely places in Provence. In Marseille’s small airport, you buy a 1 euro cup of machine coffee and you get on a plane headed for Paris or home, your mind filled with one version of France: idyllic little towns with churches and castles, lush green valleys, fruit trees in serried ranks, Provençal linens, village markets, antiques, lace, espadrilles, vineyards, lavender, handcrafted pâtés, local wines, artisanal goat cheese.

But I like to leave the airport behind and drive another 20 minutes. As I come round a bend in the highway, a very different France pops up in front of me. After the rest of Provence, Marseille’s cityscape is a giant reality check — an affront to the storybook country. Yes, the usual orange-tiled roofs spill down a hill to the city center, but vast housing projects are scattered throughout the north side of town, and huge, serious ships sit in Marseille’s modern port, a dozen or so cranes and forklifts towering over it, lifting and turning, testimony to construction and economic activity. Unlike the rest of the country, for Marseille, it’s all about the water; the land has very little to do with the life of the place.

Source: New York Times (blog)

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